Palmer Creek Unit in Fog

A magical day amongst the misty, fog-shrouded buttes and formations of Palmer Creek.  This is a small sampling of the landscape photos from the day.  Photography was challenging due to the constant mist and resulting high humidity.  To read about the adventure, see previous post, April 8, 2013.

Palmer Creek is part of the South Unit of Badlands National Park.  The land lies completely within the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation, and is co-managed by the Oglala Lakota Tribe and NPS.  Remote and difficult to access, there is just one road that leads to the unit, and it is a private road that runs through ranch land.  Visitors are to contact land owners for permission prior to attempting the roads.  Riding along with park law enforcement rangers on patrol, this isn't an issue.  But it is my understanding that it can be extremely difficult to reach land owners.  These roads are very rough and should not be attempted without a high clearance, four wheel drive vehicle.  Even with such a vehicle, it is very possible to become stuck, as happened to the chief ranger and me just last week.  Luckily the rangers have radios and can contact the south unit ranger who has a large rig, winch, and anchor.  But for the common park visitor, no such easy call for help is available.  Where we were stuck was a good 11-12 miles from the nearest real road where one might reasonably expect to locate assistance.

While in the South Unit, one must be aware and alert for unexploded ordinance of all sizes, remnants from the time when this land was used as a gunnery range.  Cleanup efforts exist, but it is a slow and tedious process.  The Badlands Bombing Range was a stretch of more than 340,000 acres of land on Pine Ridge Indian Reservation that was federally acquired in 1942 for training during WWII and beyond.  From stories I have been told, tribal residents were given three days' notice to vacate their homes - that's the residents whom the government managed to find.  Others had no warning until the bombers began flying overhead.  Many were left homeless and without occupation, unable to find replacement ranch land for livestock.  In 1968 most of the bombing range was declared excess property by the air force, and discussion began over what to do with this land.  Contentions remain today over the addition of large portions of this range to Badlands National Monument, which then gained national park status.  The current general management plan for the park includes separating the south unit lands to form a new park: the first Tribal National Park.  Meetings and planning is underway, but it will be a long process with many issues to solve.  On today's hike, we were a couple or more miles further in.

Visiting this place is such a privilege, and quite an experience.  The Palmer Creek unit has no fence line, making it rather difficult to tell where the park begins and ends.  Ranch lands surround the unit, and cattle and horses freely graze well within park boundaries.  There are just two roads on the map that run within the unit, though others do exist.  All are rough two-track, and it can be difficult to keep track of where you are.  While we were trekking through today, we used both a topo map, GPS, and google maps to keep track and record locations so that we can map these other roads.  As far as I know, there is just one park employee who knows these roads.  Neighboring ranchers and certain people from the tribe undoubtedly know these roads, but if park rangers had to respond to an incident, most would be lacking critical information.

I post the following images as a visual overview of Palmer Creek.  Visitors should take care to do research and make contacts before attempting to visit this portion of the Badlands.  The roads should not be attempted in snow or when wet unless you are knowledgeable and experienced.  Badlands mud is something to behold; it is extraordinarily slick and sticky.  In my own research on this area, I have found very little information and few photographs.  I hope to spend more time here and build a photographic tour of the unit so that others may enjoy the views.














































Badlands Residency Day 31

Not knowing what the day would bring, whether I would be down in the south unit or hiking the north unit, I woke up early and packed my backpack for any and everything.  Headed to the visitor's center around the time that everyone gets in.  As luck would have it, Ryan stopped in and had the day available to journey down  south.  Weather showed 40% chance of rain and high in the 50s, which is decent enough.  Knowing it would be chilly on the UTV, I added a couple layers of clothes including a base layer and rain gear.  Fantastic choice.  My hands and feet were cold most of the day, but I was comfortable everywhere else.  We headed south side to the v/c there around 9am, loaded up the UTV, and headed across the highway to the road that leads to Palmer Creek.  It was actually Ryan's first time in Palmer - he's been here over a year and has had to patrol all areas of the park, and yet even he had not been into this unit.  He brought his GPS so we could map the day's route and plot some of the unmarked roads onto a map.  It was misty/foggy all day, and quite windy, so everything was wet and muddy (the UTVs wheels kicked up clods of mud which were hitting us in the face all day).  Made photography rather challenging, but I still got some okay shots.  We drove a lot of the roads in Palmer, including the only two roads that are on the map.  Also drove through the place where the chief ranger got us stuck last week (see Search and Rescue blog entry).  The road only went a little bit further than the stuck place.  Intrigued by the many canyons opening up further along, we parked the UTV and hiked in.  There were dirt bike trails that continued past the established two-track road (not legal), and Ryan wanted to check where they went.  As we got further in, we found more and more interesting rocks and erosion patterns.  Lots of calcedony dikes.  Lots of fossils.  


One of the really cool finds today was some incredibly large scat.  We looked at each other over that and agreed that it appeared to be mountain lion.  A ways further into this slot canyon, I was paused for photos while Ryan continued along.  I guess he called out to check on me, and I didn't hear.  He then came across pretty fresh mountain lion tracks in the mud, and as I got closer he heard a branch snap and got nervous.  I heard a frantic sounding "Jessss????"  He said he was freaked out enough to be ready with his hand next to his pistol in case I was that mountain lion.  We came to the end of that canyon, and on the way back out tried another that connected in.  This one was very narrow and steep, but we were able to get all the way up on top.  As I scrambled up, I put my hand out to get a grip, and found an incredibly complete fossil lizard skull and neck!  Took lots of photos and emailed a couple to Ed (paleo), who is terribly excited.  I took a bunch of photos up at the top of this slot canyon, it was a fantastic view.  Ryan continued on, got around and up another area, and then to get to the very top-most spot, did some crazy scrambling up an almost vertical shelf.  He yelled back down to tell me I absolutely had to come up and see this, and to bring my cameras.  With a heavy pack on, this proved most challenging.  I got over to the edge of this (slightly sloping) cliff, and followed the step-like prints Ryan left, which usually works for getting a grip in this type of rock.  However, the material here is very very crumbly and fine, and each time I put a foot on a print, it gave out under me.  I still managed to scramble up a ways, and Ryan pointed out a plant to grab onto that was well rooted.  I managed to just barely reach it, but then I was supposed to pull myself up on it.  Yeah, right.  I might barely have the arm strength to do so without a pack on, but all I could do was dangle with the extra 30ish pounds I was wearing.  Ryan said to reach out an arm and he could haul me up and over the cliff, but it felt like my arm was going to come off.  He grabbed my pack to haul me up, but it half slid off.  I tried to slide all the way out of the pack so he could pull it up and I could get myself up, but I got stuck in my pack.  It was ridiculous.  I did get out of the pack, but it was all I could do to get it up to shoulder level - I couldn't toss it up to him.  Must start lifting weights.  He still got it, and then hauled me up and over by my arm as I scrambled my feet up the cliff.  It was so worth the effort.  The view from up there was spectacular.  As we stood there looking, Ryan said he wants a painting of this spot.  I said of course I have to paint it.  It was  really incredible, made more so by the fog and mist.  After lots of photos with pauses to wipe moisture/rain off the camera and lens, we climbed back over the ledge and quite literally slid back down the cliff-side.

Headed back out through yet another slot canyon that Ryan had spotted and scoped from up above.  At this point it was around 2pm, and we had to head out in order to get back out of Palmer by 4ish to get the UTV back and get Ryan home not too much after his work day was over.  With the continued mist and rain all day, things were far muddier on the way out, and we were covered in dirt, head to foot.  Had to stop periodically to thaw our hands on the hot exhaust from the UTV.  

It was a magical day amongst the fog-shrouded buttes and formations of Palmer Creek.  These are a few of the shots of us and the incidental adventures.  For a brief visual tour of Palmer, see next post.



Ryan prepping the UTV.
The I-beam bridge over Porcupine Creek.
Already miles down the private access road that
leads to the elusive Palmer Creek unit.
The northern start of the west road into Palmer.
Buttes appear in the mist at a distance.
Lots of drainage and creek crossings such as this.
Many are far more steep, some are rocky, some mud.
The spot where the chief ranger and I were stuck last week.
This is almost at the end of the eastern road.
Very large scat, we guessed mountain lion.
The guess of mountain lion was likely confirmed
after finding a stretch of prints.  This is Ryan's
large hand next to the print for scale.
Lizard skull and neck.  I already forgot which lizard.
Have to ask Ed again.



The cliff that Ryan hauled me up is at the top, far left of
this image.  We first had to climb down behind where
Ryan is standing to get over and up to the cliff.
Partial panorama of the view up top.
A stop to warm frozen hands on the tail pipe.
Mud covered.  A thin coating
since the mud was diluted
by the consistent mist.
A well dirtied UTV, post trip.  My backpack is so muddy,
it may never look the same!